The second-biggest trekking centre is Chiang Rai at the northernmost tip of the country. The little town, 185 kms north of Chiang Mai, was for a long time a base for the backpacking crowd to explore thisfrontal region, where Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet to form the Golden Triangle. But things have changed over the last decade, with the most recent developments addressing a much more upmarket audience.

Chiang Rai's main contribution to the Nation's identity is the Emerald Buddha, the focal point of the royal Wat Phra Kaeo in Bangkok. The statue was discovered when a lightning cracked open a chedi in the local Wat Phra Kaeo. This temple now houses a replica of the sacred image, offered by a Chinese millionaire in 1991.

Another popular attraction is the Hill Tribe Museum (daily: 10am-8pm) and Handicrafts Shop which combine with tasteful handicrafts, valuable information in the many tribes living in the nearby mountains. The proceeds go directly to village projects. There are plenty of souvenir shops around town, as well as a night bazaar next to the bus station, concessions to tourism and have preserved the charm of old towns where houses, shops and temples survive in the traditional style.

How to get there: Chiang Rai is connected to Bangkok by five daily flights (1 hour 20 mins) and to Chiang Mai by bus (both air-conditioned and non air-conditioned, 3 hours 30 mins).

Mae Hong Son, Lampang and Phrae West of Chiang Mai, Thailand's most remote province can be traversed in a 60-km loop called the Mae Hong Son loop. The rollercoaster journey on Highway 108 to the remote town of Mae Hong Son crosses one of the country's wildest scenery. And the view gets even better on the way back along Route 1095, when you get to cross the Huay Nam National Park.

The town acts as the regional capital for the many tribal villages around. The main local attraction is certainly the vibrant morning market which attracts a motley crowd of Karens, Hmongs, Lisus, Akhas, Yaos and Lahus, to name only but the main ethnic groups living in the region. Mae Hong Son, offers by far, some of the best and most rewarding trekking tracks in the region.

The Northern region's natural charm finds its most sedate expression south-east of Chiang Mai, in the towns of Lampang and Phrae. Away from the main northern attractions, both have made few concessions to tourism and have preserved the charm of old towns where houses, shops and temples survive in the traditional style.

Lying along the Wang River, Lampang can be leisurely visited with horse-drawn carriages, which have become one of the city's two symbols. The other is a famous form of pottery with a specific decoration of white, blue and brown motives.

The main sight around is the Wat Phra That Lampang, one of the best examples of the elegant Lanna style that developed at the same time as Sukhothai, while being marked by a strong influence from nearby Burma and Laos.

Still striking an unmistakable authentic note, the Elephant Conservation Centre is reputed to be the best place to see elephants in action. Originally a training centre for young elephant, the organization was forced to evolve in 1989 when the ban on logging brought a high level of unemployment for both the elephants and their mahouts, the trainer-keeper-driver.

The main reason to extend this escapade into authenticity is Phrae, an old town still circled by an earthern wall and a moat, and whose streets are lined with old teak houses. Together with the several wats, some dating as far back as the town's foundation in the 12th Century, this facet of nostalgia offers one of the purest traditional environment in the whole nation.

Phrae is also famous nation-wide for the quality of its seua maw hawm, the loose deep-blue rural working shirt, so comfortable that it is much favoured by Bangkok's urbanites as well.