We are now coming to the famous, yet infamous, Pattaya. The early peaceful seaside retreat of Bangkok's millionaires exploded almost overnight into a saucy sundown playground for the American army during the Vietnam war.

Yet, even if a large part of the visitors is still attracted by the nightlife and openly advertised sex industry, Pattaya is not without an overall holiday atmosphere that does the job of perfectly entertaining a family on holiday or a rowdy bunch of friends out for a good time.

Whether on land or sea, the sports facilities here are among the best in the country. Besides, there are plenty of theme parks and cultural attractions within day-tripping distance, good shopping all over and yes, the most brilliant transvestite cabaret shows in the whole of Asia!

Pattaya spreads over three different bays, but, the action is on Pattaya Bay and Pattaya Beach Road, a palm tree-lined promenade with an air of French or Italian Riviera.

The area is packed with hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops, tour operators and fast-food joints. Across the road, the beach is lined with parasols and chaise longues. The place for the best sea-sports facilities, however, is Jomtien Beach in the southern bay, Here, windsurfing, water-skiing, jet-skiing and parasailing are readily available. Snorkeling trips at nearby Ko Larn and Bamboo Island are available from several companies along Pattaya Beach Road. Experienced divers can go on a dive trip to a group of islands 25 kms from the shore while 'inexperienced ones can take a one-day introductory course or a four-day open-water course.

There are 17 international-standard golf courses within easy reach. Pattaya Bowl offers 20 bowling lanes and Tiffany's in North Pattaya has a shooting range. There is also a Go-kart circuit in Jomtien. Tennis courts and other hotel facilities are generally reserved for hotel guests.

The stunning Sanctuary of Truth (daily : 8am-6pm) is a huge temple palace designed to evoke the sanctuaries of Angkor. Built entirely of wood, and pretty much still a work in progress, it is a vibrant testimony to the enduring talent of Thai woodcarvers.

Other attractions include Mini Siam, an orchid garden, Elephant Village and Srichara Tiger Zoo (daily : 9am-6pm), said to be the most successful breeding place of Bengal tigers in the world.

Nightlife takes us back to "the strip" of Pattaya Beach and South Pattaya, where most of the bars, discos and massage parlours are located for the "Straight" market. Next to it is the gay enclave known as Pattayaland, boasting a similar range of night joints. The best transvestite cabarets are Alcazar and Tiffany's in North Pattaya, and Simon Cabaret in South Pattaya. Entertaining and nighty professional, they're mostly meant for tour groups and families.